Vintage 18K gold opening rose brooch with articulated petals

This astonishing vintage, French work, 18K gold (Double French eagle’s head hallmarks and a French owl hallmark) rose brooch is a masterful blend of artistry and innovation. The petals ingeniously open or close, transforming the piece from a delicate rosebud to a rose in full bloom. Of hinged gold woven-work petals opening to a cluster of round diamond and rubies with a polished stem. The sparkling diamond is in transitional-cut, approximately 0.15 cts, with an estimated G color and VS2 clarity. Surrounding the diamond are six vibrant red rubies, all prong set.

This remarkable design originated in the 1940s-1950s, a time when bold gold jewelry reemerged in popularity among collectors. Often, such innovative floral brooches were crafted on a grand scale, making them rare and highly sought after. The discovery of this more modestly sized piece offers an exceptional opportunity for collectors seeking similar design with a more friendly budget.

Stamped with "BTE SGD(G)" on the back—the French legal notice for patented artwork—this brooch is not only a stunning piece of vintage craftsmanship but also a testament to refined creativity. According to charming anecdote, it can be worn as either a blossoming flower or a budding rose, allowing you to express your mood of the day.

A timeless treasure for connoisseurs of fine vintage jewelry, this brooch embodies beauty, history, and ingenuity.

Measurements and condition

In overall good vintage condition with traces of use and oxidation.

Certain petals' articulations are loose due to age, so the petals do not always close tightly. We also notice that there is a certain way to place the petals, for the bud to keep its petals closed well.

French eagle’s head hallmarks, French owl hallmark, French patent mark

Length: 30mm

The flower measures 24mm in diameter when opens, and approximately 10mm in diameter when closes.

Weight: 7.3g